My love of travel was inspired by my Aunt Daryl, my mom’s sister. Throughout my childhood, she would bring us back little toys or trinkets from her adventures, and any spare change from the countries she visited. When I was sixteen, she sent me a postcard from Prague on one of her many trips and I became infatuated with going there. It was a night scene from Petrin Hill and displayed the mesmerizing lights of the Bohemian cityscape. I didn’t know when or how I would, but I was going to see that view for myself.

I haven’t made it to Prague yet, or even Europe for that matter, but I’m making my way around south east Asia. For a short holiday before Christmas, I visited Cambodia, spending time in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Both cities had their charms and their histories. Both cities unlike any other I’ve visited. Both cities I wouldn’t mind returning to one day, particularly Siem Reap. Being the smaller of the two, it felt more homey and relaxed compared to the bustling Phnom Penh of two million plus people.

The following is the body of an email I wrote my aunt while on the bus to Siem Reap. I felt it was a perfect encapsulation of my time in Phnom Penh and worthy of a share here. Enjoy : )

I’m currently on the bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Cambodia. It’s a 6 hour ride on a fairly new highway. As always on my travels, I’m thinking of my traveling aunt and wondering what she would do in a new country : )

So far, I’ve seen a great deal. Cambodia is beautiful, simply put. The people are lovely, and the food is delicious. I’ve made a point of eating at places not on Trip Advisor; Khmer style and where the locals would have their lunch or dinner meal. I found a delicious spot in a back alley- no tourists in sight, and enjoyed a local dish called lok lak. I noticed a few people eating a tasty looking fried egg and vegetable dish, and graciously asked the purveyor for a small try, which he served me at no cost. It was delicious and satisfying. I’m still learning the local dishes so I can try more, and learning some Khmer so I know what to ask for since as a foreigner I’ve currently had to rely off photos at restaurants and a few recommendations from a well-travelled friend.

I got off the plane in the AM, and took a tuk tuk to Choeung Ek, aka the Killing Fields. It wasn’t too far from the airport and allowed me to save a little on tuk tuk costs. What a tragically powerful experience. The atrocities experienced by the Khmer people at the hands of the Khmer Rogue brought tears to my eyes as I sat and pondered after my tour of what took place. I’ve made a point of researching before I arrived the history of Cambodia and listened to a podcast or two about the Khmer Rouge. But there is so much to know and learn.

After the experience at the Choeung Ek, I checked into my hotel, quickly refreshed and hopped in another tuk tuk to head to the Mekong River for a sunset boat cruise. 4 rivers intersect Phnom Penh; the north and south Mekong and two others. The Mekong is the 5th longest river in the world! The boat cruise was a beautiful way to see the city from a different angle. The Royal Palace lit up at night and the tourist heavy riverside.

After the cruise I walked the riverside, looking for food and absorbing the energy of the city. I came upon the PP Night Market, always an experience I seek out on my travels. The food stalls surrounded this area with about 15 sq yards of mats, shoes of those eating surrounding. I ordered lok lak (not on the menu but again graciously made for me) and sat barefoot enjoying the cool of the evening. It’s the dry season in Cambodia and hot, though most locals were pants. Most tourist spots require pants; Choeung Ek, Wat Phnom, the Royal Palace— something I did not think about while packing! Luckily I’ve been able to pick up a long skirt at the night market, and then a pair of linen pants at the Central Market. I walked the streets off the riverside, enjoying the sights and sounds of the city. China has prepared me a great deal for travel in SE Asia; I’m an expert at crossing busy streets and learned the trick of moving with a group and being assertive. I had a Cambodia beer at a rather expat-y bar overlooking the Mekong before taking a tuk tuk back to my hotel.

I arranged with the tuk tuk driver who picked me up from the airport to show me some sights in the city in the AM of my one full day in Phnom Penh. I started at the Royal Palace; many of the buildings under construction, I’m guessing since it’s the dry season. It was HOT for being 9am and sweated through my shirt as I tried to capture the architecture. I loved hearing the languages of other foreigners. Many French people, I’m assuming because of their colonization and influence in the 18-19th centuries.

After the palace, we scurried to Wat Phnom. Like many temples, it’s required to take ones shoes off upon entry. Entry is $1 for foreigners and free for Cambodians. It’s a common place for locals to make their offerings, and also seems to be a local park; many people resting in the shade of the midday heat. Then on to the central market- an 8-winged plaza of shops upon shops, frequented by locals and foreigners. I picked up a pair of linen pants and cheap flip flops to replace my old Birkenstocks which broke before I left for my city tour. I also got some snacks, Cambodian donuts and sesame coconut balls.

My tour of Phnom Penh ended at National Museum of Cambodia, housing artifacts dating back to pre-Angkor through the 19th century. The influences of Hindu and Buddhist cultures are displayed in the numerous statues of the Buddha and various Hindu deities. Cambodia also has a sizable Islamic population, residing primarily in Champa. Of course Phnom Penh, being the capital, has a variety of influences, though I noticed a heavy Vietnamese influence in the city, likely due to the occupation which occurred during our war with Vietnam.

I spent the heat of the afternoon at the rooftop pool of my hotel, cooling off from the heat and resting after a whirlwind of travel. I left Wuhan at 10pm on the 10th and arrived the next day in PP at 10am. Then with seeing sights and whatnot, I had been pretty non-stop making the most of my time in Cambodia’s capital city. I ventured out in the mild evening once again, wandering the side streets in search of Khmer food. Unfortunately to no avail, due to the heavily-influenced Vietnamese and tourist-serving establishments in the area surrounding my hotel. I did find myself at a food cart on a busy street and ordered some fried noodles, Khmer-style, only because I had already had lok lak for lunch and didn’t know what else to order. I should have ordered fried rice as I saw a tuk tuk driver order that not long after I got my meal. They were good, but noodles are not a staple of the cuisine like rice is, and likely only integrated for Chinese tourists, I’m guessing.

I finished my last night in Phnom Penh on the rooftop of the hotel at their Sky Bar and Pub. I had a cocktail and a beer as I enjoyed the lights of the city. I was able to see the Central Market, the air ducts in the ceiling revealing the lights inside. The Market itself is relatively cool for being so populated, primarily because of these ceiling air ducts allowing for air to rise up and out of the building. This bar seemed to be a place also frequented by posh locals and hotel guests alike. There were young people celebrating birthdays and reunions as I quietly observed. I didn’t understand the Khmer they were speaking but could tell by their energy they were local to the city.

I would highly recommend this hotel to anyone staying in PP. Not expensive but luxury for sure. Breakfast was included with my stay, and I paid a little extra for a room with a bathtub. Baths are almost unheard of in China, and it was something I had been sorely missing. There are hotels and guest houses all over the city, tourism being a primary economy. I’ve seen a fair amount of western and Chinese travelers.

The Khmer people are hospitable and welcoming. Tipping is not common in the culture but almost expected from tourists. The US dollar is accepted most places, though your change will be in Riel (Cambodia currency). I’ve had a bit of learning curve figuring out the tipping, what’s over or not enough. Also, I’m negotiating tuk tuk fares. I drastically overtipped my driver from the airport, but then after my trip around the city I didn’t tip and felt his energy cool towards me. I felt what I had paid was a decent price though maybe a little expensive than if I had taken separate tuk tuks. The driver was very pleasant and welcoming, waiting for me at the locations and likely missing fares that would likely surpass what I had paid. I could have at least tipped a dollar/ few thousand riel in that situation, and have now learned how to be a good tourist in this country.

I’ll arrive in Siem Reap around 4-5pm this evening. Looking forward to a smaller city (only about 200,000ish people) and the sights it has to offer. I’ll likely divide my time at Angkor Wat and the temples over two days, an AM and PM visit, though still sorting out what I’ll be doing when. Siem Reap had a few more attractions and sights to see outside of the city itself.

I’ll fill you in on my adventures in Siem Reap, and get you some pictures when I can. I have most of the good ones on my Chinese phone and can’t transfer them to my American phone at the moment.

My adventures in Siem Reap will come in another post or two, as that was truly a place with which I fell in love; the people, the streets, the food, the markets, not to mention the temples…. much more relaxed than the capital Phnom Penh, much less assuming. Stay tuned.